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Pearls are produced naturally in the body of saltwater and freshwater mollusks such as oysters and mussels. When these animals sense an irritant, such as a grain of sand, they produce a soft coating of calcium carbonate substance around it. The result is a pearl. Because perfectly round, naturally produced pearls are so rare, a process known as cultivation was developed by Kokichi Mikimoto in the early 1900s. A small bead of polished shell, the nucleus, is used as an irritant. The nucleus is delicately inserted into the mantle of the mollusk. It takes approximately 20 to 24 months of intensive husbandry to cultivate a saltwater pearl and somewhat less time to cultivate freshwater pearls. The harvest usually takes place during the months of June and September.
While pearls come in many different shapes, the rarest and highest-quality are round. Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea oysters tend to produce the roundest pearls, while those of freshwater mollusks can be oval to slightly off-round. When considering a pearl purchase, the shape of each pearl should be consistent in a necklace, bracelet, or earrings. Many of the less symmetrical shapes can be quite beautiful and are used in stylish jewelry: the drop pearl's shape lends itself well to earrings, and the baroque pearl features irregular shapes that work well as necklace accents. In addition, a half sphere pearl called a mabe is often used in earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.